Alpine stories and landscapes between Cuneo and Turin | Stage 4 Pian dell'Alpe - Meana

In this corner of Piedmont, roads go far beyond their simple function of connection to become true monuments. At altitudes ranging between 2,000 and 2,700 metres, the area linking the Finestre Pass to the Assietta Road forms the highest and most impressive network of former military roads in the entire Alpine arc. Watching over this marvel from below stands the majestic Fenestrelle Fortress, famously known as the “Great Piedmontese Wall”.

The Finestre Pass (2,176 m) is a name steeped in legend, immortalised by the epic stages of the Giro d’Italia. This late-19th-century military road, built to connect the Susa Valley with the Chisone Valley, is a masterpiece of engineering: it begins with 28 perfectly regular hairpin bends immersed in the forest, supported by dry-stone walls, before challenging cyclists with its iconic final 8 kilometres of flawless gravel road. It is the undisputed temple of road cycling and gravel riding. Reaching the fortifications at the summit offers the pure emotion of conquering the inaccessible. From here, the ancient road network branches out: just below the pass it is possible to reach the majestic Gran Serin Battery, with its high-altitude barracks, or descend towards Pian dell’Alpe, skirting the remains of Forte Serre Marie on the way to Fenestrelle.

But it is by taking the Assietta Road westward that one enters the ultimate itinerary for MTB and gravel riding. This is more than 30 kilometres of gravel track running constantly above 2,000 metres along a ridge that, in 1747, was the setting for a historic battle.

The thin mountain air and the absence of vegetation create a landscape resembling a high-altitude desert. Here, riders move through a continuous and spectacular series of climbs and descents between the Assietta, Lauson and Blegier passes, accompanied by breathtaking views over both valleys. Carved directly into solid rock with steady gradients designed for the transit of cannons, the route stretches as far as Col Basset before descending towards Sestriere and Sauze d’Oulx. A journey that leaves visitors speechless not only because of the scenery, but also because of the extraordinary labour of those who, centuries ago, managed to build kilometres of dry-stone walls in such an extreme environment.

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Climbing even higher into the Upper Susa Valley means entering the beating heart of high-altitude engineering, where outdoor sports merge spectacularly with the enormous 19th-century fortifications and the Alpine Wall. This is a record-breaking territory: here you ride on the highest drivable roads in Europe.

The Sommeiller Pass (2,993 m), above Bardonecchia, is the ultimate destination for those seeking the limits of altitude. Interestingly, this dizzying ascent was not built for military purposes: it was constructed in the early 1960s to reach the former summer ski facilities on the glacier, which has since retreated. Through long traverses, alpine meadows, waterfalls and rocky scree leading up to the glacial lake, the climb is an extreme test for MTB and gravel riders. Reaching nearly 3,000 metres, welcomed by the new mountain shelter built where the old hospitality structures once stood, offers an incomparable feeling of conquest and isolation surrounded by eternal snowfields.

An adrenaline-filled and truly unique experience is offered by the Fenil–Pramand–Jafferau route. This spectacular itinerary links the Pramand Battery to the Jafferau Fort (2,805 m), which holds the record as the highest fortification still standing on Italian territory. The most thrilling moment of the route is crossing the Saraceni Tunnel (also known as the Seguret Tunnel): nearly 900 metres of darkness carved directly into the rock in a horseshoe shape. Emerging back into the open air to ride along the ridgelines is a true paradise for enduro and all-mountain enthusiasts, who from above can dominate the entire Bardonecchia basin with their gaze.

Moving towards the ancient passes along the Italian-French border, history becomes a story of concrete and stone. At Mont Cenis (now in France), gravel enthusiasts find spectacular and mostly flat routes around the lake, true panoramic balconies watched over by the remains of imposing armoured forts such as Fort Malamot (2,914 m). Nearby, at Montgenèvre, attention is drawn to the legendary Chaberton Turret Battery (3,131 m); unfortunately, the spectacular road leading to this “Fortress in the Clouds” has collapsed into the valley below.

Completing the exploration are the gentler landscapes between Claviere, Cesana and Sauze di Cesana. The Argentera Valley, with its classic U-shaped glacial profile, reveals itself as an absolute paradise for gravel riding: its endless meadows and compact trails guide riders past former barracks and patrol paths towards the Mulattiera Pass. The Monti della Luna complete the experience with a magnificent and intricate maze of MTB trails, linking former Italian and French forts into one immense high-altitude playground without borders.

Colle delle Finestre - A legendary pass in the world of cycling, famous for its 45 unpaved hairpin bends and the spectacular link between Val Chisone and Val di Susa.

Valle di Susa - One of the main Alpine valleys in Piedmont, rich in history, with significant Roman, medieval and military remains. It is a natural corridor between Italy and France, crossed by major cycle routes, historic roads and Alpine passes.

Meana di Susa - A small village surrounded by woods and mountain landscapes, a characteristic crossing point between the valley and the high altitudes.

Susa - A town of great historical significance, boasting an important Roman and medieval heritage and serving as an Alpine hub towards France.

Exilles – An ancient village in the Susa Valley, characterised by a well-preserved historic layout and a strong Alpine identity. Its fortress is one of the most imposing fortifications in the valley: perched on a rocky outcrop, it dominates the Dora Riparia gorge.

Bardonecchia - A renowned Alpine resort, a gateway to major historical and sporting routes.

Valle Argentera - A side valley of the Val di Susa, among the wildest and most unspoilt, ideal for cycle touring and immersing oneself in Alpine nature.