Mount Cevedale from the Forni

From Rifugio Casati take the vedretta pointing towards the wide glacial slope in the direction of the summit.

Ascend the glacier without major technical difficulties, maintaining a direct line toward the upper part of the mountain.

Overcoming the steepest section, you reach the summit shoulder and then the short final ridge leading to the summit.

Descent along the same route.

Crampons and ice axe (required)

Harness, rope and glacier kit

Helmet

Sunglasses and UV protection

High-altitude clothing

Requires:

glacier progression skills

use of rope and mountaineering equipment

assessment of crevasses (most evident in late season)

Beware of:

hidden crevasses

hard or icy snow in the morning

possible exposure on the final ridge

Excellent acclimatization route or preparation for more challenging climbs (Gran Zebrù, Ortles)

Always check glacier conditions at the huts (Casati or Pizzini)

Possible concatenation with other peaks in the area, Cevedale being the first (or last of the 13 Peaks)

Ideal time: early summer to early fall. Check glacier conditions and refuge openings.

The climb is particularly rewarding for the open environment and views, and is often chosen as the first peak above 3500 m.

Recommended overnight stay at Rifugio Pizzini.